Hey everyone!
here is my final paper. please DO NOT read this if you have read the other entries about my visits to places.. it is simply a complilation of those. We got another culture teacher last week (who hasn't read our other papers) and so I didn't want to write a fresh 20 page paper, so I just took my old ones and made it one! ;) I know, I'm horrible, but I leave in a week!
See you all soon! XOXO
When I first arrived in Beijing, I was exhilarated. I was mainly overjoyed because my flights along the way were a complete nightmare. I was originally supposed to arrive in Beijing on Saturday night. Unfortunately, mechanical delays forced me to reschedule my flights in Memphis, Tennessee. I was then on a flight itinerary rollercoaster – having each flight I was scheduled on to be rearranged, until I finally arrived in Hong Kong, only to be told that my luggage was missing. I finally got on a flight to Beijing and arrived without any luggage. Having been to China before, I was prepared for the 14 hour flight, the cramped spaces and the dehydration. What I wasn’t prepared for was the feeling of being lost, compounded by the anxiety of traveling to a foreign country when I am not fluent in the language. My first experience upon arriving at the Beijing International Airport was the Baggage Services counter to file paperwork about my missing luggage. The two women who helped me were both polite and accommodating, even though I spoke little Chinese and they spoke little English. My first impressions of China were hectic, to say the least.
One of the first things I noticed upon arriving in my dormitory is how different they are from American dorms. I was surprised to learn that we (the foreign students) had a single bedroom, whereas all Chinese students share a room, usually with four to six people per room. Also, I was surprised to learn about hot water hours, internet payments per minute and beer in a vending machine downstairs. American students tend to not think or even question the fact that toilet paper will be in the bathroom stalls, or that we will even have a bathroom stall (with Western toilets). It is considered a modern, Western accessory to have “normal” toilets in the ‘cesuo.’ All in all, the dormitories, at least for the foreign students, are nicely equipped and contain many amenities that the local students do not have.
The first night of my stay I enjoyed a dinner with our school’s Beijing staff, directors and professors of all our classes. A noted difference between Chinese and Western culture is the idea of shared, family-style dining. Like eating with your family in the U.S., many Chinese restaurants have ‘lazy-Suzannes’ atop each table set for a party of ten. The fuwuyuan places appetizers, followed by main dishes, on the table, while people pick freely off any of the items. It is a unique experience and allows you to interact with all the guests at the table. I enjoy this element of Chinese dining and had the experience many times during our stay.
Another element I discovered about Beijing was the number of people who lived in such a small radius. Topping over 17 million people, the city is brimming with workers, students and tourists alike, including more than 5 million people who commute each day or don’t hold permanent residence. I find it interesting that citizens must have a household identification card. In the United States, people are able to live where they please and are able to move to any city, find a job and take up residence. This phenomenon is not the case in China. I cannot imagine the difficulties people must face in order to move to a larger city to build their career. I think Americans take it for granted that we have certain unalienable rights.
Another feature I found interesting about Beijing is the subway and its roots in the city. I discovered, upon finding one of the few English speaking television channels that the subway was originally built through the city for military purposes. It wasn’t until 1977 that the Chinese government decided to allow the local population to use the subway as a way of public transportation. The most interesting fact is that it wasn’t until 1980 that the government allowed foreigners to use the subway. I automatically assumed that when a subway is opened for public transportation that it is then used by the entire population, not just the locals.
Over the past several years, the subway has been under construction to allow more lines of transportation to various areas of the city. This construction is largely underway for the 2008 Olympics. The fact that the Olympics are located in Beijing has provided a dramatic increase in infrastructure, which will be useful even after the games are over. Having received the bid for the Olympics, China has the ability to develop international relations, increase global investments in the country and make it more accessible for students and tourists alike. When my parents were growing up, China was still largely closed to foreigners, and it was nearly inconceivable to travel to the country for language and culture programs. Today, with the economy growing four times faster than the United States annually, language proficiency and cultural knowledge can prove invaluable to American companies looking to invest in Asia.
Because of this, many students, including myself, have chosen to study in China.
Another difference seen in Beijing is the number of bicycles used in the city. I have heard before that many people use bicycles in China as a primary source of transportation, but I didn’t realize just how many people relied on this method. I find it interesting that cyclers usually take up an entire lane in traffic and seem to use their own system of traffic laws. During all hours at Tsinghua, it is normal to find more people on bikes than on foot. They weave through the pedestrians, crossing lanes and sometimes moving through on-coming traffic to get to their destination. During the summer, we had many close encounters with other bikes, pedestrians and motor vehicles. I quickly learned to pay more attention when on the road.
People in the States tend to use bicycles for leisure use only. Furthermore, it is almost imperative to own a car in the United States; whereas, in Beijing, a bike can get you to your destination often times quicker and more efficiently. It is interesting to note that the majority of Chinese drivers have had their driver’s license for less than three years. This figure might help explain the number of people who run red lights and seem to drive equivalent to teenage drivers in America. That being said, it is not a fault of the people, yet a cultural difference (especially since the majority of Americans hold a driver’s license upon reaching the legal age).
Another interesting thing to note is that most Chinese vendors and stores we have visited since arriving tend to play American pop music. I wonder how many of the customers, employees and general public actually know the music and the English lyrics of each song, or if they simply play it. Also, it is possible and often seen that many people will know the words to the song, but won’t know English. They have memorized the tune and lyrics, but don’t understand what the song means. I have experienced the same thing in Switzerland. While there on vacation, my friends and I encountered a group of young boys playing soccer in the streets. We went to join them, not knowing any Swiss German or them knowing any English. We weren’t able to communicate clearly, but the boys did play a popular American rap song, and they sang every word to it, even though they clearly did not know what it meant.
During our time in Beijing, we had the opportunity to see many historic sites and other famous areas of interest. I have included my impressions and reactions to several specific sites below. I have enjoyed seeing so much of Beijing and felt my time this summer was well spent. I also developed a greater appreciation for the city, it’s people and culture by visiting each of these sites.
The Great Wall - Badaling
On Saturday, May 17, our UF program had the opportunity to travel to the Badaling section of the Great Wall. It is easy to see how the Great Wall is considered an ancient wonder of the world. The vast distance covered by the wall is an impressive feat, not to mention the amount of time dedicated to building it over 2,000 years. The area we explored, Badaling, is the most well-preserved section of the wall and a site most often visited by tourists. Located about one hour north of Beijing proper, the wall has an average altitude of 1,000 meters (3,282 feet). Upon arriving at Badaling, we were given two hours to explore the wall. Having been to this section of the wall before, I was aware that one side, leading to the North Gate was considerably more difficult than the other side, which leads to the South Gate. The majority of the UF students chose to climb the difficult side. The day was overcast and the smog had set in, but the view of the mountains and ridgeline is breathtaking. The wall spans as far as the eye can see, winding between mountain tops and valleys. Along the wall are holes created for military defense – shooting arrows during battle. Also carved into the stone of the wall is graffiti, mostly in Chinese characters. Even in China, people want to leave their mark on a national landmark. The trek is covered with vendors selling souvenirs, including hats, t-shirts and collectibles. All are willing to negotiate, but most rip off the inexperienced bargainer. A billboard featuring the 2008 Olympics is posted near the wall and can be seen in many pictures taken.
As you climb, the small city below becomes more visible. Foreigners all climb to the fortresses found sporadically along the wall, stopping to take a break and enjoy the scenery. The fact that the wall was constructed with stones and earth is an incredible feat. The width of the wall is more than 20 feet and can accommodate the breadth of five horses (designed for military ventures). As we climbed the wall, each of us was tilted almost parallel to the ground, in order to keep our balance and, at times, push against the wind. There is a point along the difficult side of the wall where one can not see directly below someone standing – it is like a ledge with a steep drop. It was surprising to see older adults and young children climb this part of the wall; I expected to only see the young (and slightly foolish) seek this journey of the wall.
The Great Wall is a piece of Chinese culture that is hard to convey to someone who hasn’t had the experience, but I believe the street vendors and attractions added for tourist benefit have negatively altered the view and experience of the Great Wall. I think being able to experience the magnitude of this creation without the modern distractions would allow you to see the wall as it was seen millennia ago.
Tian’anmen Square, Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven
On Saturday (24 May 2008) we visited Tian’anmen Square, Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven. All three sites I have visited before, but each time offers a new experience. I have enjoyed seeing the sites again because I now have a new appreciation from studying more about the culture and learning the language. It is exhilarating to be able to read the Chinese signs, the temple names and even some descriptions. I am looking forward to understanding more as my language skills grow.
In the early morning of the day, we began our travels at Tian’anmen Square. We were unable to walk in the square on Saturday because of fences and guards blocking the entrance. I don’t know if the square was blocked because of the earthquake or another reason. I do know that the previous Monday marked one week since the earthquake; and Tian’anmen Square was the location of the ceremonial lowering of the flag to half-mast. I don’t know if this had anything to do with it, but the square was still interesting to see and evokes many emotions, especially questions about the massacre in 1989. Weeks later, we traveled back to Tian’anmen Square for a closer view of the square and the monument to the People’s Heroes. The monument was completed in 1958. Made with more than 17,000 pieces of granite and white marble, it is more than 100 feet tall.
From the square you can see the portrait of Mao hanging high as we made our way to the Forbidden City. Once arriving at the entrance, we were given a map and set off to explore the ancient wonders. The Forbidden City is the best preserved imperial palace. It is rectangular in shape and forms the largest palace complex in the world. The city is divided into two parts: the southern section (outer court) and the northern section (inner court). The Outer Court is where the emperor exercised his power over the nation. The emperor and the royal family lived in the Inner Court.
Having been here before, I found it interesting to pay attention to the reaction of my friends. I remember coming two years ago and honestly being distressed that many of the buildings were under construction. During my first visit, many buildings, including one near the front entrance, had a canvas picture of the building over the actual architecture. This was done so the public could see how the building was designed and but was currently under renovations. I appreciate the canvas as opposed to just the construction site, but would prefer to simply see how the buildings look in their original form. All of the Forbidden City has been repainted to represent the old colors.
The Forbidden City began construction in 1407 and was completed 14 years later. It was home to 14 emperors during the Ming Dynasty and 10 emperors of the Qing Dynasty. Now called the Palace Museum, the city is one of the most popular tourist sites in the world. I found it interesting to learn what materials were used to make the bricks and cement. The bricks were made with white lime and glutinous rice. The cement is made of glutinous rice and egg whites. These materials, which seem more like a dinner combination rather than building materials, make the structure of the Forbidden City extremely strong. Yellow dominates the color palette of the city because the color represents the royal family. The only building without a yellow roof is the Wenyuange (library); it is painted black to represent water, which is used to extinguish fire and fend off destruction. Although we didn’t see the library, it was interesting to find out the reasoning behind the color choices. The city is vibrant; however, some parts of the walls appear to be older and show faded colors, making it seem like you are experiencing the original structure of the building. I enjoyed seeing the city again and learning more about the cultural background.
After, we traveled to the Temple of Heaven. Construction began on the Temple of Heaven (Tiantan) in 1420. It is three times bigger than the Forbidden City and is the largest existing complex for worshipping Heaven. Twice a year, the emperor would go to the temples to pray for a good harvest and conduct ceremonial worshipping. All the buildings have special dark blue roof tiles which represent Heaven. When we entered the complex, it was amazing to see the vast gardens and fine details of the temple architecture. The buildings were constructed with squares and circles in a precise manner. The squares, representing Earth, are located on the bottom of many of the sites. The circles, representing Heaven, are used for the design of all the temples. I didn’t learn until later about the effects of the Echo Stones. I have heard that if you speak facing the Imperial Vault of Heaven while standing on the first stone, you will hear one echo. If you stand on the second and third stones, you will hear two and three echoes respectively.
Also, the Echo Wall is designed to hear even a whisper. It’s been said that if you and a friend stand on the east and west roots of the wall, one is able to utter a whisper and the other can hear it clearly. The long corridor was marked with local musicians and numerous citizens lounging along the walls, playing different instruments and chatting together. In 2005, the Temple of Heaven underwent a 47 million yuan renovation to prepare for the 2008 Olympics. Many of the famous sites in Beijing have undergone construction and facelifts for the many people who will flock to the city during the Olympics this summer. It is exciting to see the changes in the city and the infrastructure that has been added to better the city. I have been interested to see the changes around me from two years ago to today.
BeiHai Park
On Saturday, 31 May 2008, some friends and I went to BeiHai Park (Beihai Gongyuan). It is one of the oldest, largest and best-preserved ancient imperial gardens in China located in the center of Beijing. The site is a perfect integration of magnificent imperial palaces and solemn religious constructions. Built according to a traditional Chinese legend, BeiHai is said to imitate three magic mountains to the East of China that contained herbal medicine for human immortality. Legend has it that many emperors, including Emperor Qin of the Qin Dynasty, sought the magic mountains. After failing to find the immortal medicine, Emperor Qin dug a large pool and piled up three earth hills at his palace to imitate the circumstances in the legend.
Many Chinese believe that a combination of mountain and water represented strength and wisdom. BeiHai Park is built as another representation of this royal combination. Initially built in the Liao Dynasty, it was repaired for centuries later before finally become the scale it is today during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). In 1925, the park was first opened to the public, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors from all over the world every year.
More than half of the park is taken up by the lake. In the middle lies the Jade Flowery Islet, topped by the Tibetan White Dagoba. We weren’t able to go inside the temple, but were able to view another structure in front of the dagoba. Upon entering the park, you immediately notice all the paddle and electric boats. People of all ages are enjoying the water and milling around like hand-geared toy boats in the bathtub. Even with a slight overcast, the view was magnificent. Just beyond the main entrance to the park is the Round City, home of the Jade Urn. We didn’t visit this section of the park until the end of our trip, but it is well worth the time to see the ancient carvings on the jade. The urn is approximately four feet in diameter and sits on a stand roughly five feet high. It is a unique piece of history and a wonder that it is still intact.
The Jade Flowery Islet, located in the middle of the park, is accessible by bridge. The lake is full of water lilies and small fish playing in the cool water. After crossing the bridge, there is a gold turtle statue with a dragon head. It is considered good luck to rub the turtle, so we each took turns rubbing the already well-rubbed back of the turtle. Next, we explored the man-made island. Lined with beautiful gardens and little streams and rivers, the islet is a relaxing spot for a better view of the city. Short spaces of steps are interspersed with scenic sites. Because of its natural beauty, I can understand why the park was at one time closed to the public. As the imperial family, I too would want to enjoy the view in solitude. At the top of the mountain, nearest the dagoba, you have a 180 degree view of Beijing as well as the lake below. On a clear day, you can see the Forbidden City, Summer Palace and many other famous landmarks.
Lama Temple
On Saturday, 7 June 2008, we went to the Lama Temple (YongHeGong). I have been before two years ago, but didn’t remember much of the experience. Yonghegong Tibetian Buddhist Lama Temple, the biggest lamasery in Beijing, was built in 1694 as the residence of Prince Yong of Qing Dynasty. After the prince came to the throne, he changed his old residence into a temporary dwelling palace in 1725. His successor, Emperor Qianlong changed the palace into a lama temple. Many Buddha statues are enshrined within the temple and Tang-ga (scrolled painting) and precious cultural relics are displayed. Three of the most famous statues are: the Niche of Buddha, which has three layers of filigree; the Five-Hundred-Arhat Mountain, which is carved out of red sandalwood; and an 26-meter high Buddha which was carved out of white sandalwood and holds the Guinness Book of World Records for the largest statue made out of one piece.
Since the founding of the People’s Republic of China, the government has attached great importance to this temple and has allocated large sums of money to renovate it. In 1961, it was listed as a major Historic Site under State Protection. The Yonghegong Lama Temple survived during the turbulent years of the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976). In 1981, the temple was opened to the public. Now knowing more about the temple, I was able to better appreciate its history and culture.
Summer Palace
We also saw the Summer Palace (Yi He Yuan) this summer. Having met some local students, we took them along for the afternoon and enjoyed a wonderful day by the water. The Summer Palace covers an expanse of 2.9 square kilometers, three quarters of which is water. The palace area is mainly dominated by Longevity Hill and the Kunming Lake. It suffered two major attacks during the Anglo-French invasion of 1860 and the Boxer Rebellion in 1900. It served as a summer resort for Empress Dowager Cixi, who used monies originally designated for the Chinese navy to reconstruct and enlarge the Summer Palace.
UNESCO has declared the Summer Palace an “outstanding expression of the creative art of Chinese landscape garden design, incorporating the works of humankind and nature in a harmonious whole.”
When we arrived at the palace, we began walking toward the lake along the Suzhou Street. We stopped at the Bronze Ox statue, also called the “Golden Ox.” The ox was positioned near the water to keep the floods down. Next, we traveled over the 17-Arch Bridge (Shiqi Kong Qiao), which has over 500 engraved lions and runs along the eastern edge of the lake. It is the longest bridge in any Chinese imperial garden and was named for its seventeen arches. We also walked along the Long Corridor and came to the Marble Boat, which is at the southwest foot of the hill.
The boat, also known as Qingyanfang (Boat of Clearness and Comfort), was built in 1755 as an imitation of the sailing boats that Qianlong took during his inspection of Southern China. As an old saying goes, "water can carry the boat as well as overturn it," meaning that water symbolizing the common people can uphold the royal boat, or it can swamp the boat. Emperor Qianlong had the huge Marble Boat fastened in the water to indicate the steadfast rule of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).
Confucius Temple
On Sunday, 8 June 2008, we went back to the same area as the Lama Temple to see the Confucius Temple (kong miao). Not as widely known perhaps, but definitely more relaxing the temple was used for training and the building up of Confucianism.
The area is covered with stone tablets that have the carved names of each person to pass the imperial examinations. The examinations take years to study for and the accomplishment is one of high regard. The temple allows visitors to feel secluded from the big city and somehow manages to block all noise except for birds chirping and other forms of nature. The Confucius Temple is located adjacent to the Imperial College, where many of the students were trained. The temple has a large hall that was once used by the Emperor to make speeches and give lectures to the public about Confucius ideals. The temple also houses an extensive museum/gallery that tells visitors how Confucianism has spread around the world and their goal to create 100 Confucius schools.
Excursions outside Beijing: Shanghai
One weekend in June, the UF students traveled to Shanghai. During our time there, we went to the top of the Shanghai Pearl Tower, which isn't a pearl tower, but a TV station. The tower is the tallest building in Asia. It was raining, but we had a great aerial view of the city and the surrounding areas. We then traveled to the Bund, which is a riverside walkway. Along the walk, there were street vendors selling kites, watches and other souvenir goods. Next, we went to a small tea house and had a private tea ceremony, where we got to try several different kinds of tea.
We also traveled to the Old Shanghai street, which I had the opportunity to peruse when I came two years ago. I made many purchases there previously and was excited to see the area again. Regrettably, we were quickly led through the street, leaving no time to stop and shop.
On the second day of our trip, we went to ZhuJiaJiao, which is an old village outside of the city. There were many people at the entrance selling small goldfish. It is tradition to make a wish and release the fish back into the water. Many of our group purchased some and made a wish. The water along the village was filled with gondolas, reminding me of Venice, Italy. Locals milled around the streets, selling food, playing Chinese chess and sewing clothes. I enjoyed seeing an authentic village in China and seeing how people live daily outside of urban life.
Excursion outside Beijing: Xi’an
The weekend of the U.S. Independence Day (4 July 2008), the UF program students traveled to Xi’an. Capital of Shaanxi province and the national capital of at least 12 dynasties, the name literally means Western Peace. Home to the world-famous Terra Cotta Warriors, the site is prized as the eighth wonder of the world. Discovered in 1974, the Terra Cotta Warriors and Horses are the most significant archeological excavations of the 20th century. The mausoleum of Emperor Qin took decades to finish and holds more than 7,000 warriors. It is said that after his death, Emperor Qin had concubines sealed in for the afterlife. He also had anyone who knew of the tomb’s location sealed in alive in order to protect the location of his mausoleum. I didn’t know this information when I last visited the site, and seeing it again, I was able to imagine how horrible it would be to be sealed inside. I was excited to see if any further uncovering had taken place during the past two years, but regret to say that the museum looks as it did before. In fact, there were places in the first pit which houses the majority of the relics uncovered, that appears to be ‘re-covered.’ I seem to recall more warriors and horses being seen in the pit, but this visit showed more dirt and unearthed areas. Even so, seeing the site again and getting the chance to explore the area again was exciting.
After the Terra Cotta Soldiers, we traveled to the imperial hot springs. Huaqing Palace was built by the Tang emperor Xuanzong near the hot springs at the foot of Li Shan. After exploring many of the hot springs used by the emperor, his concubines and his chef, we took a cable car up to the top of the mountain for a better view of below. Outside the city’s center, we weren’t able to see the heart of Xi’an, but were able to see vast mountain tops and the area around the Huaqing Palace. The sunny, clear day made our trek worthwhile and we were able to enjoy our time, however short, atop the mountainside.
The second day of our trip we began our site-seeing early and headed first to the ancient city wall. Xi’an is one of only two cities with intact surrounding walls in China. The last time I traveled to Xi’an, I was also able to visit the wall. This time, though, I rented a tandem bicycle with a friend and we rode around the entire wall (13.7 km). The day was beautiful, and it was nice to enjoy the wonderful blue sky and clean air while we biked around the city. We also traveled to the Big-Wild Goose Pagoda before returning to Beijing.
During my time in China, I was able to see many different sites and experience first-hand cultural differences. Even though many things in China are different from Western life, I have grown to love them and will miss many things. I have enjoyed the food, the architecture and the people of the city. I hope to return to China next year and continue my travels as I work to learn Mandarin. I also hope to live here for a few years and work with a Public Relations firm. I believe China has a bright future; I would like to be a part of it. I look forward to learning more about it for many years to come.
